The Tour of the Aubrac Mountains
#Travel Journal
- Published on April 18, 2025
- Reading time: 10 minutes
Gr in aubrac
10 days of wandering in the heart of the plateau
190 km of freedom, light, wind, and emotion: the Tour des Monts d’Aubrac offers ten timeless days, traversing a landscape where the plateaus still bear the marks of winter, where forests are budding, and where pastures are gradually regaining their tender green. Granite villages, vast horizons, and ever-changing atmospheres punctuate each stage. This is my travelogue.
Day 1 - 14km
From Aumont-Aubrac to Prinsuéjols
I leave Aumont-Aubrac still enveloped in the morning’s freshness. The village church steeples gently recede as I reach the forest tracks of the Margeride.
The path meanders between pines, open meadows, and granite crosses—omnipresent, as if watching over travelers.
The stage is gentle, almost a warm-up. The calm accompanies me all the way to Prinsuéjols, where the old houses with their slate roofs seem to have stood there forever.
- Highlight of the day: the first encounters with the Aubrac cows, curious and unperturbed.
Day 2 - 14km
From Prinsuéjols to Saint-Laurent-de-Muret
The sun breaks through the morning mist. The pond and the Château de la Baume appear majestic amidst the woods, still damp from the spring rains.
The path winds between undergrowth and clearings: shadow, light, the silent flight of birds of prey. Saint-Laurent-de-Muret welcomes me peacefully, almost intimately.
- A memorable moment: the climb around the hamlet of Chantegrenouille, where the spring wind seems to tell ancient stories.
Day 3 - 14km
From Saint-Laurent-de-Muret to the Rajas Refuge
A short stage, but the landscape opens up, becoming wilder. The climbs are steady, the panoramas breathtaking.
From La Blatte onward, the Aubrac plateau unfolds in all its glory: stone walls, grasses still russet from winter and the first greens of spring, curious herds, and the free wind. The Rajas refuge appears like a beacon in the summer pastures.
- A little something for today: on the way, I pass near the famous tree from the film "Saint-Jacques... La Mecque", a small symbol of the plateau... and the only place here where you can get a little bit of network coverage!
Day 4 - 18km
From the Rajas Refuge in Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac
A magical awakening at the refuge: a vast sky, pure light, the tinkling of cowbells in the pastures. I climb towards the Signal de Mailhebiau: the panoramas are majestic, but the diffused light creates an almost mystical effect on the valleys and distant woods. The descent towards the Aubrac forest brings coolness and shade, then the Boralde valley unfolds with its deeper hues before arriving in Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac.
- Highlight of the day: the changing beauty of the plateau under a cloudy sky, which makes the colours of the pastures and hills even more vibrant.
Day 5 - 26km
From Saint-Chély-d’Aubrac to Laguiole
The longest stage. The climb right from the edge of the village sets the tone. Budding woods unfold one after another, the slope steepens, but the panoramas are worth the effort: Belvezet, Bout de l’Enfer, solitary burons (traditional shepherd’s huts).
As you approach Laguiole, the deserted ski slopes still bear witness to last winter.
- Highlight of the day: arriving at the heights of Vayssaïre, a suspended moment between sky and plateau.
Day 6 - 18km
From Laguiole to Saint-Urcize
The path opens onto the spring pastures. Endless meadows, traditional stone huts, volcanic rocks, and golden grasses. The weather changes rapidly: bright sunshine, a cool breeze, fleeting clouds—the magic of the plateau in April. Saint-Urcize rises atop a basalt promontory, its iconic bell tower resembling a comb.
- Highlight of the day: the Jiou Jiou and Gouteille waterfalls, discovered upon arrival, in a wild and preserved setting.
Day 7 - 18km
From Saint-Urcize to La Chaldette
A detour to the Rocher de la Vierge (Virgin’s Rock): the view over the village is splendid.
The GR trail descends into the cool Hère valley before climbing back up towards Recoules-d’Aubrac, a charming stone village. The Bès River accompanies the last few kilometers towards La Chaldette.
- Highlight of the day: the view from the Cheylaret rock, which encompasses the plateau
Day 8 - 23km
From La Chaldette to Fournels
A hilly stage, alternating between streams, woods, and spring meadows.
As you approach Fournels, the village comes into view, peaceful and surrounded by fields and grassy pastures. Overlooking the village, its castle stands majestically, unfortunately closed to visitors.
- Today's favourite spot: the cool undergrowth, perfect for recharging after the big plateaus.
Day 9 - 25km
From Fournels to Fau-de-Peyre
Ancient hamlets, paths dotted with crosses and low stone walls.
A rural and intimate atmosphere, gentler terrain, alternating meadows and spring forests.
Le Fau-de-Peyre appears, charming and peaceful, perfect for recharging your batteries.
- Today's highlight: the authenticity of the villages and agricultural landscapes.
Day 10 - 19km
From Fau-de-Peyre to Aumont-Aubrac
Last day, a touch of nostalgia.
Paths bathed in golden light, gentle climbs, serene descents, cowbells marking my steps.
As I approach Aumont-Aubrac, memories mingle: morning mists, budding forests, traditional mountain huts, valleys, solitude, and the pure beauty of the Aubrac plateau.
- My favorite moment of the day: the simple yet intense emotion of returning to the starting point, transformed.
Conclusion of 10 days at the pace of the Aubrac
The Tour des Monts d’Aubrac is more than just a long-distance hiking trail.
It’s a true encounter. With a land, with the people you meet… and a little bit with yourself too.
For ten days, you traverse an authentic, wild, sometimes rugged but always profoundly welcoming region. A land that doesn’t speak loudly, but touches you deeply. You come to walk, to breathe, to get a change of scenery…
And you leave with the Aubrac in your heart, especially in spring, when everything gently awakens and the plateau reveals its unique light.
A simple, genuine adventure that stays with you long after you’ve packed your bag.